Growing Winter Squash

This page is about Growing Winter Squash. Winter Squash does not mean it can be grown during the winter.

Most squash is not self-pollinating therefore it will require bees and other insects to pollinate it. These insects are usually in hibernation during winter time.

For the 2010 season we will not have a model since we have two other winter squash pages focusing on Waltham and Honey Bear.

The term winter squash refers more to the time it is sold than the time it is planted. Usually winter squash is planted in the summer time and harvested until the Fall but will keep well into February depending on how cool of a place you can store it.

Growing Winter Squash does not grow in the winter time. It is a hot weather plant and likes temps the high 80's to low 90's. Anything above this and they die.

Since it is now September, it is not a good time to plant winter squash or squash of any kind. Generally winter squash is larger and more meatier than summer squash, which is squash grown during the summer time and harvest during the summer time but does not have as long a shelf life as winter squash.

Winter squash usually requires at least a 100 plus days to mature depending on the variety, while summer squash can be ready in about 50 days.

10-02-09

I have decided to plant some squash indoors and see what happens. We will track the growth as time goes on. I planted these about ten days ago and they are doing OK however we have had a cloudy weather so they are not getting the sunshine they need.

Below are my winter squash plants.

CULTURE: Growing Winter Squash requires fertile, composted, well-drained soil is best.

FROM TRANSPLANTS: Sow in 1 1/2-2" containers or plug trays. Thin to 1-2 plants/cell with scissors. Harden plants 4-7 days by reducing fertilizer, water, and temperature, moving flats outside if there is no frost danger.

Transplant Growing Winter Squash after frost danger has passed, earlier only if plants are to be covered with floating row covers. Transplant about 18" apart for bush and small-fruited varieties, and 24-36" apart for large-fruited varieties. Take care not to disturb roots!

DIRECT SEEDING: Sow in late spring after frost danger when soil is warm, minimum 62°F (17°C) for treated seeds and 70°F (21°C for untreated seeds. Seeds will rot in cool soil, especially cool, wet soil. Sow 2-3 seeds every 18" (24-36" for large-fruited varieties) 1/2-1" deep; or sow about 6" apart. Thin to 1 plant per spot. Rows 6' apart, 12' apart for larger fruit.

OTHER PLANTING SCHEMES: Some growers "check plant" in rows 3' apart, plants 3' apart in the rows (or 6' apart in both directions). This permits tractor cultivation in both directions. Jab planters are the ticket for check planting (see Index).

DISEASES: Cucumber beetles can carry bacterial wilt and must be controlled or they can damage our Growing Winter Squash. Gummy stem blight (black rot) causes black, sunken spots to appear on fruits in storage and the tan scabby patches on Butternuts in the field. Downy mildew may occur in cool, damp weather, powdery mildew in hot, droughty periods and in late summer. Consult Extension agent for specific fungicide control.

SPRING COLD PROTECTION: AG-19 (heavier grade) floating row covers will provide about 4° of frost protection and add warmth for vigor and earlier harvest.

INSECT PESTS: Protect young Growing Winter Squash plants with floating row covers. Cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and vine borers can be a challenge. Rotenone and pyrethrin offer some control. Squash bug eggs laid on underside of leaves may be located and crushed. Keep borders well mowed.

For vine borers, use rotenone around the base of young plants. Cut borers out of vines and hill soil over the wound. Clean up refuse in the fall, and spring-plow the ground to bury the pupae. Butternuts, which have solid stems, are usually not bothered by borers.

FALL FROST: Frost kills leaves and can thus facilitate harvest; however, it can also damage fruits and cause spotting and poor storage. Mature fruits can usually tolerate 1 and sometimes 2 or 3 light frosts without substantial damage. Sprinkler irrigation wards off moderate frost damage to fruits.

HARVEST: Before heavy frost, cut stems about 1" from the fruit when stem is drying and skin is hardening. Handle fruits like eggs!

CURING: Cure in the field to dry and toughen skins by exposing fruits to sun for 5-7 days or so, covering in the evening if frost is likely. An indoor method of curing is to expose squash to 80-90°F (27-32°C) with ventilation for 3-5 days.

STORAGE: Store at 50-55°F (10-13°C), 50-75% humidity, and good air circulation.

DAYS TO MATURITY: From direct seeding; subtract about 14 days if transplanting. ). PACKET: approx. 30 seeds unless otherwise stated.

In the picture below are Butternut Squash seeds.

3-22-2010

Below is a Squash Waltham Winter Seedling. I will be planting these outside this Spring.

For more information on Squash visit Growing Acorn Squash along with Growing Winter Squash with Yellow Crookneck Squash

Thank you for your visit.

Go to Squash Home Page from Growing Winter Squash.

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