Growing Acorn Squash

This page shows pictures and gives instructions on Growing Acorn Squash using the Honey Bear as the model, shown at the right.

The Honey Bear is a delicious, small size, 2009 All-America Selections winner.

The plants produce unique, 1–1 1/4 pound, four inch rounded fruits that are just the right size, halved for single servings.

Honey Bear sets the standard for taste in acorn squash: deliciously starchy and sweet. Compact bush plant resists powdery mildew. This innovative acorn squash was bred by Dr. Brent Loy at the University of New Hampshire.

The Honey Bear is an annual squash which matures in about 85 days.

The Honey Bear likes soil that is fertile, composted and well-drained.

FROM TRANSPLANTS: Sow in 1 1/2-2" containers or plug trays. Thin to 1-2 plants/cell with scissors. Harden plants 4-7 days by reducing fertilizer, water, and temperature, moving flats outside if there is no frost danger.

Growing Acorn Squash seedlings should be transplanted after frost danger, earlier only if plants are to be covered with floating row covers. Transplant about 18" apart for bush and small-fruited varieties, and 24-36" apart for large-fruited varieties. Take care not to disturb roots!

DIRECT SEEDING: Sow in late spring after frost danger when soil is warm, minimum 62°F for treated seeds and 70°F for untreated seeds. Seeds will rot in cool soil, especially cool, wet soil. Sow 2-3 seeds every 18" (24-36" for large-fruited varieties) 1/2-1" deep; or sow about 6" apart. Thin to 1 plant per spot. Rows 6' apart, 12' apart for larger fruit.

DISEASES: Growing Acorn Squash plants can be attacked by cucumber beetles can carry bacterial wilt and must be controlled. Gummy stem blight (black rot) causes black, sunken spots to appear on fruits in storage and the tan scabby patches on Butternuts in the field. Downy mildew may occur in cool, damp weather, powdery mildew in hot, droughty periods and in late summer.

SPRING COLD PROTECTION: AG-19 (heavier grade) floating row covers will provide about 4° of frost protection and add warmth for vigor and earlier harvest.

INSECT PESTS: Protect young Growing Acorn Squash plants with floating row covers. Cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and vine borers can be a challenge. Rotenone and pyrethrin offer some control. Squash bug eggs laid on underside of leaves may be located and crushed.

Keep borders well mowed. For vine borers, use rotenone around the base of young plants. Cut borers out of vines and hill soil over the wound. Clean up refuse in the fall, and spring-plow the ground to bury the pupae. Butternuts, which have solid stems, are usually not bothered by borers.

FALL FROST: Frost kills leaves and can thus facilitate harvest; however, it can also damage fruits and cause spotting and poor storage. Mature fruits can usually tolerate 1 and sometimes 2 or 3 light frosts without substantial damage. Sprinkler irrigation wards off moderate frost damage to fruits. HARVEST: Before heavy frost, cut stems about 1" from the fruit when stem is drying and skin is hardening. Handle fruits like eggs!

CURING: Cure in the field to dry and toughen skins by exposing fruits to sun for 5-7 days or so, covering in the evening if frost is likely.

An indoor method of curing is to expose squash to 80-90°F with ventilation for 3-5 days.

STORAGE: Store at 50-55°F, 50-75% humidity, and good air circulation.

AAS Winners

Awarded to vegetable, flower and herb varieties from around the world. Winners are chosen based on scores received from judges at 34 sites in the U.S. and Canada.

For more information on Squash, visit Growing Butternut Squash along with Winter Squash and Yellow Crookneck Squash.

June 2010

Below is our Honey Bear as it is emerging and first seedlings.

The next pictures are the seedlings being transplanted. They are coming along very well.

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